
In the wild, rabbits live happily in large groups, providing them with company and security. They also physically groom each other, which helps to keep their coats in a healthy condition.
Rabbits are social animals and even house rabbits’ benefit from the company of their own kind. But they are picky over the company they keep - you can’t just put two rabbits together and expect them to get along. So, how do you bond rabbits?
How to Bond Rabbits
Introducing a new rabbit to an existing rabbit can be a stressful experience for all involved, so it’s important to follow the rabbit bonding stages. Rabbit bonding stages remain the same regardless of age and sex. But how long does it take for rabbits to bond? For some there is an instant attraction, and for others it can take weeks or even months of hard work, while some rabbits may never be able to bond together.
Rabbits are often very territorial, so introductions need to be done slowly and carefully. Both rabbits should be neutered before any introductions are made. If either of the rabbits are too young to be neutered, you’ll need to hold off the bonding process and keep them separate until they’ve recovered from their operations (around 4 weeks after neutering). Be warned… a neutered male can still get a female rabbit pregnant for at least 3 weeks post-castration!
Rabbit Bonding Stages:
Stage 1: put two rabbit cages next to each other, but not touching, so the rabbits can see and smell each other through the wire but can’t injure each other. To get them used to the others scent, swap their litter trays and toys over every day. When the rabbits are both happy in each other’s company and aren’t showing any signs of aggression, you can move on to stage 2.
Stage 2: now they can start being together for short periods of time while keeping an eye on them. Do this in a neutral area, where neither rabbit has been before, so that it’s not claimed territory. A bigger area in a spare room, a new run, or a bathtub makes for an ideal neutral territory for bonding sessions.
Make sure there are lots of new toys (so there’s no rabbit scent on them) to help distract them from each other. You’ll need two feed and water bowls, so they don’t feel they have to compete for them.
Some mounting, nipping, and chasing are all normal behaviours. If all goes well, continue putting your rabbits together like this several times a day, leaving them for slightly longer periods each time. Some rabbits bond quicker than others and appear to just ‘fall in love at first sight’. Mutual grooming and playing together is a sign that the bonding process is going well!
If the rabbits start fighting, separate them straight away. Use blankets, cushions, or cardboard sheets to separate the two rabbits and to prevent getting bitten yourself. Go back to stage 1 until things calm down and the aggression stops, then move on to stage 2 again. You may have to restart this process a few times before they start to bond.
Stage 3: once the rabbits have begun grooming each other, you’re unlikely to see any more aggression. Your rabbits can now be left together all the time, but still keep a close eye on them for several weeks just in case there are any problems. Past this point, they'll be ready to move in with each other.
Rabbits have preferences as to who they want to live with. So, you may find they won’t bond with one rabbit, but then instantly connect with another. But even bonded rabbits can have tiffs every now and then, when you’ll probably see more nipping, chasing and mounting behaviour. This is common around springtime.
As long as no real aggression is being displayed, you shouldn’t need to separate them, just keep a close eye on them.
Bad Signs to Look Out for When Bonding Rabbits
When trying to bond two rabbits keep an eye out for signs of them not getting along. Rabbit fighting is the most obvious display of conflict, but there’s usually other body language shown and vocalisations that can be heard before a fight breaks out.
If either rabbit has a tense body with their ears back and tail up, it means they’re feeling unhappy or threatened. If they sit upright and box out their front paws, it’s a warning to ‘back off’. Lunging at the other rabbit shows they’re annoyed or scared, and thumping of their back feet can mean they feel angry or in danger.
Grunting, growling, or screaming are all sounds your rabbit will make if it’s feeling threatened. And tooth grinding can indicate stress. Separate your rabbits and give them a break from each other if you notice any of these signs. You can then start the bonding process from stage 1 again as you may have a more success next time.
If the two rabbits never successfully bond, you’ll have to keep them separate and try to bond them with other rabbits instead.
What’s the Best Combination of Bonded Rabbits?
The most successful rabbit bonding happens between a male (buck) and a female (doe). Unless you want baby bunnies, both rabbits should be neutered. Bucks can be neutered around 4-5 months of age and does at 5-6 months.
If the buck isn’t neutered, he will constantly try to mate with the doe regardless of if she has been neutered. This can cause conflict between the pair as the doe will get annoyed with his constant mating attempts. If only the buck is neutered, then the doe may try to mount him instead. Again, this can cause upset between the two.
There are other benefits to neutering, such as reducing the risk of uterine cancer in female rabbits. Occasional mounting behaviour from the dominant rabbit is normal even in two neutered rabbits.
Rabbits of the same sex can live together but bonding is often much harder and will probably take longer. There’s also a higher failure rate and fights are likely to be more vicious. This is when serious injuries can happen which should be avoided at all costs. Bonding bunnies of the same sex should be started from a young age, and neutering of both rabbits is a must.
Should Rabbits Be Kept in Pairs?
Yes! Rabbits are social creatures and enjoy each other’s company. Three is a crowd and it rarely works to add a third bunny to a pair of bonded rabbits. In fact, it can seriously damage the bond between the two existing rabbits.
Combining two already bonded pairs has a higher success rate, but each pair needs its own territory so there’ll be lots of nipping and chasing. Starting the bonding process from a young age is also more likely to lead to success.
Can Rabbits Bond with Other Animals?
Rabbits do form bonds with their owners and sometimes even other animals. But it’s not recommended for rabbits to share an enclosure with other animals, like guinea pigs, as they have very different dietary requirements, and it can be difficult to control what is eaten.
Rabbits may even bully guinea pigs by chasing and biting them or mounting and sitting on them. This can lead to serious and fatal injuries to the guinea pig. So, it's best to stick to a rabbit and rabbit pairing.
Can Rabbits Live Alone?
Yes, rabbits can happily live alone if they get to spend lots of time with their owner. But if you’re unable to be at home most of the time, then it’s best to get your rabbit a bunny companion. If your rabbit has lived alone for many years, and then circumstances change, they can still bond and will often happily accept a bunny pal. Younger bunnies can even give an older bunny a new lease of life!
If you want to know how to bond with a bunny yourself, the process is very much the same as bonding rabbit pairs. Let your rabbit get used to you through sight and scent before you try to handle them. Spend a lot of time with them, teaching them tricks or playing games and grooming them. If your rabbit shows signs of discomfort or aggression, give them space, and then try again later.
What Should I Do if One Rabbit is Ill?
If you have a bonded pair of rabbits and one becomes ill, you should never separate them from each other. This would cause a great deal of distress to both rabbits. Any trips to the vets should be done together.
Bonded bunnies that have been split up for even a short amount of time, will probably have to be re-bonded going through all of the rabbit bonding stages. And even then, they may not accept each other again! So, it’s really important they stay together all the time, unless it’s detrimental to one or both of their health to remain together. Speak to your vet for advice on whether your bunnies need to be separated.
What Happens to Bonded Rabbits When One Dies?
If one of a bonded pair dies, it can have a serious impact on its the companion left behind. But there are things you can do to make this time easier for them. Firstly, let your rabbit spend time with the body of their companion. This will help them to realise that their friend won’t be returning.
They may spend minutes or even hours nudging the body to try to get them to move. Don’t remove the body until your rabbit loses interest and moves away from it.
Keep an eye on your rabbit for changes in their behaviour – they may appear depressed, lethargic or eat less than usual. It’s important for them to keep eating, drinking, and going to the toilet as normal. Contact your vet if you’re concerned about your rabbit.
Your rabbit may be feeling lonely, lost, or confused so try and spend more time with them. Offer them some of their favourite foods, play games with them or just sit and stroke them. Although it may not be at the forefront of your mind, the best option may be to get another companion for your rabbit.
A rabbit can form a new bond with another rabbit after being separated from their previous companion. But you’ll need to go through the rabbit bonding stages. Your rabbit will be much happier to have a bunny pal.
Rabbits are social animals and are happiest when they’ve got a bunny companion. Bonding rabbits can be a long process and it’s not always successful, so you may need to try multiple times.
Opposite sex bonding has a higher success rate, but don’t forget, it’s best to get your rabbits neutered before you try to bond them. Rabbits are less likely to fight when neutered as they’re generally friendlier, more affectionate, and less dominating. Bonded rabbits should not be separated unless it’s absolutely necessary.
Everypaw Rabbit Insurance
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Content provided from Vetstream's Vetlexicon Lapis – www.vetlexicon.com/lapis
Vetlexicon is the world’s largest peer-reviewed online clinical reference source. All our content is written and peer-reviewed by over 1,000 of the world’s leading veterinarians, ensuring relevance, accuracy and quality.
- Vetstream Ltd & Speight C (online) Rabbit companions. In: Vetlexicon Lapis. Vetstream Ltd, UK. Website: https://www.vetlexicon.com/lapis/owner-information/client-factsheets/rabbit-companions/
- Speight C & Purnell E (online) Rabbit language – what is your rabbit saying? In: Vetlexicon Lapis. Vetstream Ltd, UK. Website: https://www.vetlexicon.com/lapis/behavior/client-factsheets/rabbit-language-what-is-your-rabbit-saying/